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After the death of a royal, the whole nation was expected to observe the grand deuil de cour (full-court mourning) — a mandated mourning dress code — for up to a year (depending on the rank of the deceased). During that time, no colors or jewelry could be worn. This dress code had three stages. Initially, one must wear non-reflective black clothes of wool or poplin for several months (as shown here). This was to be followed by clothes of black silk or satin. The final stage was one of half-mourning wherein black and white garments were allowed.
Designed by Pierre-Thomas Le Clerc (French, Paris 1740–1796), engraved by Nicholas Dupin, Gallerie des modes et costumes français. 37e. Cahier des Costumes Français. 29e. Suite d'Habillemens à la mode en 1781. NN.211, ca. 1781.
Text from: Ruffles & Ribbons: Fashion Plates from the Time of Marie Antoinette. © 2026 The Frick Collection.
