Guidelines for appropriate mourning attire for members of society at various removes from the royal family were continually updated in journals and almanacs, making mourning a major sartorial event. Men were required to wear black ensembles made of wool during the first stage of full court mourning (as shown here), in addition to pleureuses (literally, mourners) — bands of white linen or cambric — around their sleeve cuffs, as well as strips of black crepe fabric around their hats and swords.
Designed by Pierre-Thomas Le Clerc (French, Paris 1740–1796), engraved by Etienne Claude Voysard (French, Paris 1746–1812), Gallerie des modes et costumes français. 37e. Cahier des Costumes Français. 29e. Suite d'Habillemens à la mode en 1781. NN.212, ca. 1781.
Text from: Ruffles & Ribbons: Fashion Plates from the Time of Marie Antoinette. © 2026 The Frick Collection.